Kabab, Kormas & Capital Culture!

LUCKNOW GOURMANDSPEAK
By Chander Mahadev

Once upon an Awadhi time, a Nawab was playing host to a renowned foreign guest. He ordered his chief bawarchi (cook) to prepare the most succulent and soft Kababs for the visitor. But he warned him that if the Kababs were not top draw, he would lose his head. The nervous chef rustled up a kingly fare but when the Nawab saw his guest chewing at the Kabab, he was livid, and promptly lopped off the cook’s head. It then transpired that the assistant cook, who was present there, took on the challenge and promised to make amends. Since marinating was the key, he decided to bury the meat mince dough in a pineapple and presto; thus emerged the softest Kakori Kabab.

Of such exotic stuff are Awadhi cuisine legends made up of. The Kakori Seekh Kabab has been so named because the cook hailed from the adjoining town of Kakori. The rest as the say is Awadh cuisine history. Welcome to Lucknow, the city of Kababs, Kormas and scrumptious Biryani.

How different is it from Mughlai food? Ask eminent Lucknow historian Ravi Bhat and he shares: “Awadh food is no doubt inspired by Mughlai cuisine, but the comparison ends there. Most Lucknow foodie tales have a ring of nawabi pizzazz and refinement and they are a fine blend of Mughlai, Persian and local flavours.” When asked about the Awadhi fetish for ‘soft meat’ he comes up with the startling disclosure that all Awadh Nawabs had bad dentures. As gourmet legend would have it, the bawarchis of Awadh transformed the traditional dastarkhwan (embroidered or white tablecloth laid on carpets or a low table) with lip-smacking Kababs and Biryani made with immense patience and loving care.

The collective psyche of Lucknow is steeped in culinary refinement and this is strongly reflected in the Kababs, Kormas, Kaliya, Nahari-kulchas, Zarda, Sheermal, Roomali rotis and Warqi parathas.

The richness of ‘Awadhi Dum’ cuisine lies not only in the variety but also in the ingredients used. What exactly is the 'Dum Pukht' process? It is a fine art where food is sealed in a large pot called handi and placed over slow fire, allowing the ingredients to be cooked in their own juices under the strict supervision of bawarchis (cooks). It takes about three days to prepare the meal in a traditional manner. A heady aroma permeates the air the moment the handi lid is opened. The penchant for making food into an art form is what distinguishes it (Awadh cuisine) from others, reveals Shakhawat who runs an immensely popular Awadhi cuisine joint by the same name in the city.

But the uncrowned king of Awadh culinary art is ‘Tunday Kebabi’ located in the Chowk area of old Lucknow. With branches spreading out to Saharaganj Mall and Wave Mutliplex Mall -- for this foodie family -- serving authentic Awadhi fare seems to be the family’s sole mission in life. “We make the Kababs and Biryani in our Chowk kitchen and then send it to our branches. This way there is no scope for change in taste. And unlike Mughlai food, we use less spices. We also don’t colour the Biryani with Zafrani either,” reveals Mohammed Usman, the present owner of Tunday Kababi
The succulent Gilaawat Kebab known for its melt-in-the-mouth quality was perfected by Tundey Mian, who served Nawab Wajid Ati Shah towards the end of the 19th century. The hakeem is said to have been so pleased with Tundey Mian's creation that he gave a prescription for incorporating 160 aromatic and digestive spices. The gilawaat's tenderness comes from the process of marination in the enzyme papain.
As mentioned earlier, the most happening Kabab is the Seekh Kabab also known as the Kakori by the place of the same name. According to another account, the Seekh was originally prepared from beef mince on skewers and cooked over charcoal fire. But later influences and innovations led to the use of lamb mince which was preferred for its soft texture. A bawarchi from Kakori (a place in the Lucknow-Malihabad mango belt) refined it further and therefore the Kabab got this name, reveals Mohd Usman.
Another interesting aside is that the formal menu of Awadh did not have any place for biryani, but it was and still is popular. It may be pertinent to mention that the creations of the legendary Tundey are so named because he possessed just one arm.
‘Biryani’ literally means fried or bhuna and in this preparation the rice is lightly fried before being cooked in mutton stock. The Sheermal, invented in Lucknow, is a rich bread consisting mainly of flour, milk, fat and saffron. Traditionally cooked in an iron tandoor, it can be cooked in a tawa by covering it with a lid and heating it from both top and bottom.
Famed for his patronage of the arts, it is believed that the colourful Nawab Wajid Ali Shah took cooking to aesthetic heights. His court, like other Nawabs’, was a meeting place for musicians, actors, writers and even cooks. And, this speaks of the level of refinement they achieved.
In keeping with this age-long tradition of culinary expertise, the Naushijaan Lazzat-e-Lucknow is a restaurant that takes you on a walk down memory lane, reliving the eating experience of the Nawabi era. This restaurant is a haven of culinary culture and the food is genuinely high class; even the simplest dish of the most common ingredients being cooked as if it were a rare delicacy.
As for pure vegetarian fare, Lucknow boasts of the Basket Chaat which is a runaway hit. Situated at downtown Hazratganj, is Royal Muman Cafe, in whose corridor is housed the Chaat eatery. The intricately designed basket is highly edible, as it is woven by freshly made potato finger fries. If that leaves you drooling in the mouth, a few streets down Aminabad you will hit Prakash Kulfi Bhandar which dishes out sumptuous home-made ice cream complete with different Faluda (Vermicelli) flavours.
So, the next time you bite into Lucknawi cuisine you will do well remember that you are biting into the Tehzeeb or Nazakat of this glorious and culturally endowed city. Now, that is some food for thought, with a lot more than just meat going into it.